Tunis

Dar El Jeld serves elevated Tunisian cuisine in a restored 19th-century Medina mansion near Al-Zaytuna Mosque. Dine beneath vaulted ceilings on dishes like harissa-spiced fish or lamb tajine, where traditional recipes meet polished presentation. The rooftop terrace offers Medina views at sunset, while the courtyard buzzes with live jazz evenings. Though now a boutique hotel with a spa, its soul remains culinary. Book ahead for the atmospheric basement dining room, where tilework and carved stucco frame memorable meals.

Chez Slah thrives on its ever-changing Mediterranean catch. This unpretentious seafood spot operates market-style: servers present the day’s haul for diners to choose what’s freshest. Expect simply grilled fish, garlicky prawns, or octopus salad, all served in a whitewashed dining room buzzing with locals. While the handwritten menu proves unreliable (ask for recommendations), regulars praise the quality over quantity approach. Service can be leisurely, but that’s part of its seaside charm. Book ahead for weekend evenings when the terrace fills with families sharing platters of sea bream and carafes of Tunisian white.

Omek Sanafa delivers hearty Tunisian tavern fare in a lively, pub-like setting. Famous for its kamounia — a rich cumin-spiced beef and liver stew — the restaurant serves generous portions meant for sharing. The menu shines with Mediterranean seafood and tapas-style meze, best enjoyed at the rustic wooden tables that fill up quickly with locals. While the vaulted stone interior impresses, it's the convivial atmosphere that lingers in memory. Reservations are wise, especially on weekends when the scent of slow-cooked dishes and the hum of conversation spill into the alleyway.

Chez Chouchou masters Tunisia’s answer to fast food. Think steaming bowls of ojja merguez — spicy sausage stew with baked eggs, the local equivalent of Shakshouka — served at Formica tables. This no-frills café feeds locals with generous portions of comfort food, like seafood pasta and caramelised semolina desserts. Arrive by 6pm to snag a stool before the after-work crowd descends. The open kitchen’s sizzle and the clatter of shared tables create an authentic backdrop for budget-friendly meals that taste like home cooking.

Foundouk El Attarine offers regal hospitality in a restored Medina caravanserai, where Princess Salwa Bay often greets guests personally. The glass-roofed courtyard bathes diners in light as they sample refined Tunisian classics: from delicate brik pastries to aromatic lamb tagines. While the daily menu delivers excellent value, the true luxury lies in the attentive service and the sense of dining in a private palace. Book ahead for prime seating beneath the restored caravanserai arches, where the murmur of fountains accompanies evening meals. Jackets preferred after sunset.

Fresh K Salad Shop reinvents fast food with build-your-own salads bursting with Mediterranean ingredients. Choose between couscous, quinoa or leafy bases, then load up with roasted vegetables, local cheeses or grilled seafood. The dressings — from pomegranate molasses to harissa-infused olive oil — elevate simple greens into satisfying meals. Popular with health-conscious office workers, this spot proves Tunisian flavours adapt brilliantly to vegetarian and pescatarian diets. Arrive before 1pm to avoid the lunch rush at this self-service gem.

Calcutta, housed within the Golden Carthage Hotel, brings authentic North Indian flavours to Tunis. Their tandoor oven produces exceptional chicken tikka — crisp-edged yet succulent — while biryanis arrive fragrant with saffron and rosewater. Unlike most local eateries, they maintain evening service during Ramadan, their Kashmiri-style shrimp curry drawing late-night diners. The white-tablecloth setting contrasts playfully with bold murals of Delhi street scenes. Book ahead for terrace seating overlooking the hotel’s palm-fringed pool.