A night in the desert reveals a landscape transformed. The intense silence and profound darkness that follow sunset give way to a celestial display, with the Milky Way arching vividly across the sky. This experience often begins with the thrill of dune bashing at dusk, followed by the tranquillity of a traditional camp. Here, the evening is spent around a fire, enjoying aromatic coffee and sweet dates, perhaps accompanied by the gentle bubbling of a shisha pipe. It is a stark, beautiful contrast to the daytime heat and a chance to comprehend the vast, empty spaces that have shaped Bedouin culture for millennia.

Works on Brindisi’s impressive Cathedral began in the 11th century and it was rebuilt in the mid-18th century. Parts of the original building, including a twelfth-century mosaic floor, can still be seen. Inside you can see the altars in poly-chrome marble commissioned, the balustrades and the majolica floor.

Beit Nassif stands as one of Al-Balad’s most significant restored coral houses, a 19th-century merchant’s mansion that later served as a royal residence for King Abdulaziz. Its Ottoman-inspired design includes distinctive bay windows and ramps built for camel messengers to access the upper floors. The interior reveals grand rooms and a library, while a 130-year-old neem tree — once Jeddah’s only tree — guards the entrance. Visiting can be a logistical exercise; access is not always straightforward, and some areas, like the rooftop terrace with its panoramic views, may be closed without notice. It’s wise to call ahead to confirm opening times and avoid a fruitless journey.

The best sandy beach in the region can be found just south of this pretty fishing port on Apulia's west coast, about 80 km (50 miles) south of Brindisi, where yet another medieval castle guards a fine natural harbour overlooked by old whitewashed houses. Gallipoli has plenty of places to stay suiting all budgets and some excellent fish restaurants.