Porto Cervo is the only real town and the Smeralda’s ’capital’, disguised as a Mediterranean fishing village with a curious mix of Moroccan style buildings. This is a pleasant place to stroll, people-watch and to go window-shopping.

Witnessing the age-old craft of leather treatment at the Bab Debbagh tanneries is a fascinating experience. Situated near a river for water supply, these tanneries have been operating for centuries. The distinctive odour, resulting from ammonia used in the leather-softening process, will let you know you've arrived. Unlike some other Moroccan tanneries, the focus here is on treating leather in its natural state; the dyeing happens elsewhere. Visiting the site can be a bit tricky due to the presence of unofficial 'guides' demanding payment. If you prefer a hassle-free experience, consider hiring a certified guide as part of a medina tour. Otherwise, prepare to navigate past these unofficial attendants by offering a small tip and insisting on entering without their assistance.

The town of Santa Teresa Gallura is situated on the northernmost tip of the island and has stunning views over the straits of Bonifacio to the island of Corsica. Rena Bianca is the town’s beach, and you can find it only a stone’s throw from the centre, with turquoise water and flour-fine sand. Just to the west, on the headland Capo Testa, there are two beaches. The left hand side is beautiful and ideal for children, and the beach on the right is also beautiful with amazing rock formations. Ferries leave daily for a 50 minute trip to cross the Straits to the town of Bonifacio, in Corsica. This is perfect for a great day out, having French lunch and doing some shopping.