Enclosed within a protective wall reaching up to 20 metres in width, the Ciudad Amurallada (or Walled City) is Cartagena's old beating heart. Packed with well-preserved colonial buildings, it's a pleasure to stroll through; its streets of colourful low-rise merchant homes marked by iconic balconies are now mostly walked by either tourists or students who attend classes at the University of Cartagena during the day and linger for meals and nightlife after school is out. Cafes in Plaza Aduana and Plaza Santo Domingo teem with patrons, forging an incredibly jovial atmosphere; the districts of San Diego and El Centro are two not to be missed. There is plenty of food and shopping to be had, with a mixed bag of world-class restaurants and street food hawkers and the incredibly photogenic palenqueras — women dressed in vibrantly coloured clothing selling fruit in the streets — images of whom have become emblematic of Colombia as a travel destination.

Andicuri's wild beauty makes it a unique spot on the island. It sits on the windy, underdeveloped eastern coast, inside the Arikok National Park. An organised tour is probably the best way to reach it. Its crystal waters are moved by strong waves, which make them great for experienced surfers and not safe for swimming. There are no amenities, and you should bring your own food.

TIM is the country’s main venue for traditional and contemporary cultural events, including dance, drama, music, and film. There are frequent appearances by troupes of dancers from Bali and elsewhere and by gamelan musicians. You can find the monthly calendar of events at hotels and tourist offices, or check the Jakarta Post for listings.