The Duke's Diwan

The so-called Temple of Hercules (AD 162–166) dominates Amman’s Citadel. These days, archaeologists prefer to call it the Great Temple of Amman, since its dedication remains uncertain. Only six Corinthian columns stand reconstructed today. The rest lie as fragmented drums, their dowel holes revealing Roman engineering techniques. A colossal marble statue once graced the site. All that survives is a weathered elbow and fingers, suggesting a figure over 13 metres tall, likely toppled in the 8th-century earthquake. The temple’s platform doubles as Amman’s premier viewpoint, framing the modern city against the 150-metre Jordanian flag. Excavations nearby expose layers of civilisation: Umayyad palaces, Byzantine churches, and Roman baths intertwine with older Bronze Age ruins. Though the Hercules name persists thanks to the sculptural remnant, archaeologists emphasise the temple’s civic importance. Its sheer scale reflects Amman’s status as a regional hub. Guides prove invaluable for deciphering 9,000 years of history compressed into a single hilltop.

Darat Al Funun unites contemporary Arab art with layered history. Housed in a gracefully restored 1920s complex, its rotating exhibitions unfold alongside Byzantine ruins, including a 6th-century church at the entrance. The hillside gardens frame panoramic views of Amman, making this as much an architectural pilgrimage as an art destination.

One of Amman's most entertaining attractions is the Royal Automobile Museum, mostly containing (nearly a hundred!) vehicles from the collection of late King Hussein of Jordan. Models spanning the second half of the 20th century make for an interesting look around, the latest hit addition being the very vehicle used in the filming of acclaimed "The Martian".

The spectacular Roman Theatre, although restored in the late 20th century, remains largely true to the way it was once conceptualised in as early as 2nd century AD. It's a highlight for most visitors to Amman, used as a venue to house open-air concerts and shows in the summer.

The Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts offers a refreshing counterpoint to Amman’s ancient ruins. It showcases contemporary works from across the Islamic world in two airy buildings that flank a sculpture-dotted park. Founded in 1980 under royal patronage, its collection spans 2,000 pieces: from provocative Palestinian installations to delicate Sudanese weavings. Be sure to check the rotating exhibitions in Building 1. Building 2 anchors the experience. Start at the ground-floor, then work your way up through bold Jordanian abstracts before rewarding yourself at the top-floor café. Its terrace overlooks Jabal al-Luweibdeh’s artsy rooftops, perfect for reflecting over mint tea after browsing the art library’s curated books. Free from crowds (and mercifully air-conditioned), it’s where Amman’s creative pulse feels most immediate.

The Royal Tank Museum rolls into Amman’s cultural scene with unexpected swagger, its 150 armoured beasts (from WWI relics to Jordan’s homegrown modifications) displayed with cinematic flair. Architect Zaid Daoud’s sleek 2018 design lets you circle Soviet T-34s and hulking Challengers like a battlefield rubbernecker, while interactive displays appeal to kids and military buffs alike. Displayed chronologically, the exhibits trace Jordan’s martial legacy from the Arab Revolt’s camel cavalry to 1967’s Battle of Karamah, though the real stars are the machines. German Panzers stand next to locally retrofitted Centurions, their spec in English and Arabic. Recharge your batteries at the café on the top floor. Budget an hour, ignore the jingoistic plaques, and don’t miss the outdoor arena where (select weekends) engines roar to life.

Amman's Children's Museum is surprisingly delightful. There are plenty of interactive exhibits allowing the young ones to get a hands-on approach to learning about the world, from the inner workings of the human digestive system to the mechanics of a car. Adults will enjoy continuing on to the Royal Automobile Museum next door.

As opposed to the omnipresent in Jordan remains of Roman and Umayyad structures, Qasr al-Abd is a rare example of architecture pre-dating the Roman era. Its exact origins remain unknown, which only adds to the fascination. Qasr al-Abd is usually described as a large Hellenistic palace from the first quarter of the second century BCE. Not too far from here are the ancient caves dating back to roughly the same time period.