See wild little penguins emerge from the ocean and head for their homes in a natural rookery on an after-dark tour. Established by locals to protect the penguin population, the tour lets you get close to the penguins without disturbing their nightly journey. These are wild birds, so penguin numbers and arrival times vary with the life-cycle activity and weather, with larger numbers of 100-125 birds from September to January. You can expect to get very close to a penguin on this tour.

There is no better way to start your visit to Lima than where it all began. The Plaza de Armas or Plaza Mayor is the birthplace of Peru's capital and still the city's main hub. Around the square, you will find many of Lima's historic landmarks such as a 17th-century Cathedral, the Government Palace (the official residence of Peru's president), the Archbishop's Palace, the Municipal Palace, the Palace of the Union, and the Casa del Oidor — it is a great place to admire many of the colonial architectural gems Lima boasts. Embellishing the centre of the plaza is a beautiful 1650 bronze fountain set on what once was the grounds of the city's gallows. At noon, walk to the Presidential Palace to watch the traditional changing of the guards. Just a few minutes from there is the historic Gran Hotel Bolivar, where many Hollywood stars, singers, politicians and famous authors have stayed. The list includes former American President Nixon, Ernest Hemingway and Mick Jagger, among others.

The now privately-owned Bird Island is the archipelago's northernmost, tellingly named after its incredible population of birds. The Bird Island Lodge provides eco-friendly accommodation and delicious meals, and further pursuits include snorkelling, dolphin-watching, and meeting the island's largest inhabitant - the 300kg tortoise Esmeralda.

In the heart of Miraflores lie the remains of a pre-Inca pyramid, built around 500 AD and said to have served as a ceremonial and administrative centre for a coastal indigenous civilisation. Visits to the complex are also possible at night when the setting gets even more dramatic. Don't miss the Huaca Pucllana Restaurant, which offers you a front-row seat to the ruins (mentioned in the Dining section of this guide).