Lafayette Market

The Central Market of Tunis fills an airy, timber-beamed hall with the rhythm of daily commerce. Butchers, spice merchants and household vendors share space with stalls piled high with glazed ceramics, woven handicrafts and seafood caught just hours before. The scent of dried harissa and fresh figs hangs between the aisles, while small eateries serve workers and visitors alike. Negotiate cheerfully — vendors expect haggling, and partaking in this ancient custom is part of the experience.

Souq des Chechias preserves Tunisia’s crimson-hatted heritage beneath vaulted brick arches designed to funnel Mediterranean breezes. Once the engine of a million-strong fez trade, its remaining artisans still hand-felt wool into the iconic blood-red chechias, now joined by rainbow variations for West African markets. The 17th-century complex, divided into Grand and Petit Souq, showcases Moorish ingenuity: thick walls buffer summer heat, while roof apertures cast chessboard shadows across the arcades. Observe craftsmen pressing steaming wool over wooden moulds, a technique unchanged since Ottoman times. Nearby, the Perfumiers Souq (al-Attarine) contributes amber and jasmine notes to the air. At dusk, traders slide shut the souq’s nail-studded doors painted with protective calligraphy, but the alley’s café lingers with students debating over sweet tea. Unlike medina stalls hawking mass-produced souvenirs, this is a living industry, where a hat’s price reflects days of kneading, dyeing, and sun-drying. For authenticity, seek shops with Zaghouan-dyed wool, the deepest scarlet.

Souq Al-Attarine has perfumed Tunis since the 13th century, its stone-vaulted alleys still redolent with amber, crushed jasmine and rosewater. Nestled against Al-Zaytuna Mosque’s northern wall, this labyrinth of scent operates as both a medieval trading hub and a modern beauty bazaar. Vendors measure aromatic oils from glass decanters, while bundles of dried henna and musk-filled pendants dangle above cedarwood counters. Unlike quieter specialty souqs, Al-Attarine thrums with dual energy: devout shoppers selecting prayer-time fragrances brush shoulders with tourists sampling orange-blossom colognes. While some shops now stock imported perfumes and the dupes, seek out fourth-generation distillers for traditional floral Ma'Zahr (orange blossom) waters.

Rue Charles de Gaulle, a key thoroughfare from Tunisia’s colonial era, is now the commercial pulse of central Tunis. Shopfronts line the sidewalks, anchored by the Marché Central — a must-visit for food stalls, local crafts and people watching. The street’s constant buzz offers both retail therapy and a slice of urban Tunisian life.

Librairie Diwan occupies a historic Zeytuniye madrasa, where 15th-century scholars once studied next to Al-Zaytuna Mosque. Today, its arched alcoves house curated shelves of travel guides, art books and Tunisian literature in multiple languages. Between the books, discover handcrafted souvenirs: from miniature mosaic tables to leather-bound journals. The space itself is the main attraction, with original tilework and carved cedar ceilings framing quiet reading corners. A thoughtful stop for travellers seeking meaningful mementos, it’s conveniently located near the mosque’s northern entrance.

Marché Lafayette offers a more compact alternative to the Central Market of Tunis, specialising in fresh produce. Autumn brings ruby pomegranates and early citrus, while summer stalls overflow with figs and cactus fruit. Year-round, vendors display Tunisian staples like Deglet Nour dates and Saharan olives. Follow the scent of fresh mint to herb stalls, where bundles of green contrast with baskets of dried peppers. Though some protein stalls exist, the vibrant fruit and vegetable stands remain the main attraction. For peak freshness, arrive before the midday heat.

Deyma is an artisan sweets shop that turns dates into edible pieces of art by stuffing them with pistachio paste, covering them with chocolate and transforming them in all sorts of delicious ways. Boxes of sweets from here make perfect gifts and souvenirs.