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Shanghai is the shiniest gem in modern China’s jewel box. It’s a hip, contemporary city charging into the future with all the energy of its famous Maglev train. Yet, if you veer away from the sleek highways and glitzy shopping streets you can still stumble upon a more traditional Shanghai, with all its character and flavour. In the tiny back streets, wet-market vendors peddle their wares — buckets of bright green vegetables, fish flapping in shallow plastic bowls, and heaps of crayfish crawling over each other.